3D printing troubleshooting
Pillowing (gappy top surface)
Also known as: the top layer comes out with holes, bumps or won't close.
The symptom
The part's top surface won't close properly: gaps between lines, small craters or bumps where the infill below shows through. The rest of the part looks fine.
Causes and fixes, ranked by likelihood
- 1
Too few top layers: the 'lid' tries to bridge over the infill with too little material.
Fix: Increase top layers until the lid is ≥1 mm thick: at 0.2 mm layers that's 5-6 top layers (fast profiles sometimes ship 3).
Source: Simplify3D — Print Quality Guide: Gaps in Top Layers ↗ - 2
Infill too sparse: the lid's bridges sag between widely spaced infill walls.
Fix: Raise infill to 15-20% for parts with large lids, or keep the % and add more top layers. For hollow decorative boxes, consider vase mode.
Source: Simplify3D — Print Quality Guide: Gaps in Top Layers ↗ - 3
Not enough cooling on the lid layers: the sagging plastic doesn't set before the next pass.
Fix: Run the fan at 100% on the top layers (many slicers allow per-layer ranges). With PLA this alone fixes half the cases.
Source: Simplify3D — Print Quality Guide: Gaps in Top Layers ↗
hotend tools that help here
FAQ
- Pillowing or under-extrusion? The gaps look similar.
- Look at WHERE they are: pillowing only affects the top surface (the lid); under-extrusion leaves gaps in walls and perimeters all over. If the sides are perfect, it's pillowing.
- Why does it happen more with thin layers?
- Because each lid layer is thinner and sags more easily between infill. At 0.1 mm layers you need twice as many top layers for the same 1 mm lid.
Sources & references
This page is cross-checked against public manufacturer documentation and reference technical guides:
- Manufacturer Prusa Knowledge Base — Print quality issues ↗
- Technical guide Simplify3D — Print Quality Guide: Gaps in Top Layers ↗
Still stuck? Back to the quick diagnosis or check which materials your printer can handle.