Elephant foot

Causes and fixes, ranked by likelihood

1. 1

   First layer over-squished: the Z-offset is so low the plastic has nowhere to go but sideways.

   Fix: Raise the Z-offset in 0.02-0.05 mm steps until the first layer is flat but no longer overflows past each line's edges.

   Source: Prusa Knowledge Base — Elephant foot compensation ↗
2. 2

   Bed too hot for the material: the bottom layers stay soft and the part's weight squashes them.

   Fix: Drop the bed 5-10 °C (e.g. PLA from 65 to 55-60 °C). If you need the heat for adhesion, compensate with the slicer setting below.

   Source: Prusa Knowledge Base — First layer issues ↗
3. 3

   You're not using the compensation your slicer already ships.

   Fix: Enable “Elephant foot compensation” (PrusaSlicer/Orca/Bambu Studio all call it that): it shrinks the first layers 0.1-0.2 mm and the edge comes out straight with no other change.

   Source: Prusa Knowledge Base — Elephant foot compensation ↗
4. 4

   The design doesn't help: sharp edges sitting directly on the bed.

   Fix: If you own the model, add a small 0.3-0.5 mm chamfer on the bottom edge; it absorbs the squish and releases cleaner.

5. 5

   Unlevelled bed: the lip shows up only on one side of the part because the nozzle rides lower there than elsewhere.

   Fix: Re-level (or run mesh bed levelling if your printer has it) and check nothing is trapped under the plate. An asymmetric elephant foot is a levelling problem, not global Z-offset.

   Source: Prusa Knowledge Base — First layer issues ↗

hotend tools that help here

FAQ

Elephant foot or warping? I mix them up.

Opposites: elephant foot WIDENS the base (plastic squashed outwards); warping LIFTS it (corners curling up). The first is fixed with less squish; the second with more adhesion and heat.

How much compensation should I set in the slicer?

Start with 0.15 mm on 1-2 layers. If the edge still bulges, go up in 0.05 steps. Overdoing it shrinks the base and lifts its edge off the bed.

Can I remove the elephant foot from an already-printed part?

Yes: a deburring blade (or a patient box cutter) along the edge, then flat sanding to finish. For holes, a hand countersink works wonders. Fine for rescuing one part; if it happens on every print, calibrate — deburring a hundred parts is not a hobby.

Does a raft eliminate elephant foot?

Yes: the raft absorbs the squish and the part grows on top with a 'normal' first layer. The price is a rougher bottom face and noticeably more time. These days compensation + chamfer wins, with rafts reserved for ABS or parts with a tiny footprint.