Use-case guide
Resin or filament for miniatures?
If wargaming or tabletop miniatures are your thing (Warhammer, D&D, Infinity), this is the decision that matters most. Short answer: for 28-32 mm figures, always resin. For terrain and large parts, filament. Here's why, and the tradeoffs of each.
Why resin wins for miniatures
The difference is detail, and it's not subtle. A good resin (MSLA) printer has a resolution of 18-35 microns, 10-20× finer than an FDM with the typical 0.4 mm nozzle. At miniature scale — faces, fabric folds, armor textures — filament can't reproduce that detail, while resin nails it. Anyone who's tried both sums it up the same way: night and day.
It's also cheap in material: printing a dozen 28 mm infantry figures can cost under €1 of resin.
When filament (FDM) makes sense
FDM isn't out of the hobby, it just plays a different role. It's the choice for large parts where fine detail matters less and size and cost matter more:
- Terrain and scenery: buildings, ruins, hills.
- Large-scale vehicles (1:48 or bigger).
- Large bases (100 mm+) and transport cases.
For all that, PLA/PETG's lower cost per gram and toughness beat resin.
The resin tradeoff (nobody tells you at first)
Before jumping to resin for the detail, accept its uncomfortable side:
- It's toxic and irritating: liquid resin requires nitrile gloves and ventilation. Not for printing in the living room.
- Mandatory post-processing: every part is washed in isopropyl alcohol and cured under UV light. More steps, more time, more mess.
- Extra consumables: alcohol, gloves, sometimes a wash-and-cure station.
That's why we don't recommend resin as a first and only printer unless miniatures are your main goal. For versatility starting out, FDM is a better entry point (see the beginner guide).
Conclusion
- 28-32 mm miniatures (Warhammer, D&D) → resin. See resin printers.
- Terrain, large vehicles, bases → filament. See the FDM catalog.
- Many players end up with both: resin for troops, FDM for scenery.
FAQ
- Resin or filament for Warhammer miniatures?
- Resin, no contest, for 28-32 mm miniatures (Warhammer, D&D, Infinity). A good resin printer's resolution (18-35 microns) is 10-20× finer than an FDM with a 0.4 mm nozzle: the detail at that scale isn't comparable.
- Is FDM useless for wargaming?
- No, it's just for other things: terrain, buildings, large vehicles (1:48 scale or bigger) and large bases. For those, its lower cost and toughness pay off. The rule: small detailed minis → resin; large scenery → filament.
- How much does printing a resin miniature cost?
- Very little in material: printing 10 infantry figures at 28 mm can cost under €1 of resin. The real cost is the printer, specialty resins and post-processing consumables (alcohol).
- What's the downside of resin?
- The process. Liquid resin is an irritant and toxic: it requires nitrile gloves, ventilation and care. Plus every part needs post-processing: an isopropyl alcohol wash and UV curing. It's messier and more laborious than filament, which is why it's not recommended as a first printer unless miniatures are your sole goal.